Where the Bandon meets the sea
Where the Bandon meets the sea

Where the Bandon meets the sea

This entry is part 8 of 27 in the series Ag am ar bith - Ireland & Scotland 2019

15 August 2019

It’s time to explore the Southern coast of Ireland. But first we had some shopping to attend to in Kenmare.

Every year, on the 15th of August, the town has the Kenmare fair. People come from far to buy livestock, and other farm-like stuff. And we ended up in the middle of this. Stalls lined the streets, but contained mostly tools and clothing that would be useful on a farm. And animals, of course. I could have bought a horse, if I could manage to fit him in my suitcase.

We didn’t really plan any major detours on the drive down to Kinsale. But we did at least want to see a part of the coast, so headed down to Baltimore. The understanding was that there would be a lighthouse. Actually, it is just a beacon. After the Irish Rebellion of 1798, the British government ordered the construction of a series of lighthouses along the coast of Ireland. It included one at Baltimore, and after this lighthouse fell into complete disrepair, the current conical beacon was built to replace it in the late 1840’s. Today, the locals apparently refer to it as “Lot’s Wife”.

Our attempts to minimise detours failed a little. In trying to take the shorter route back to the ‘main’ route to Kinsale, we ended up driving such narrow roads, that it often felt like we were just driving along someone’s driveway. It did however take us past some lovely views, and the Toe Hill Signal tower and Castletownshend, a lovely village built around a castle built by one Richard Townsend in the 17th century.

Kinsale’s most notable claim to fame would be the Battle of Kinsale. It was the final straw that broke Gaelic Ireland’s back and gave England rule over Ireland. But in more modern-day terms, Kinsale is considered the ‘foodie town’ of Ireland. And it seems they worked hard at it to get to be the Gourmet Capital of Ireland. They started the Good Food Circle, made up of eleven of the town’s restaurants, where you are guaranteed an exquisite dining experience. Niel did say that it was the best salmon meal he had eaten.

Today, our accommodation that we had booked in Kinsale turned out to be rather shady. Fortunately, the receptionist at the neighbouring hotel was ready to help, which means that we now have a very comfortable room with a beautiful view of Kinsale harbour.

Ag am ar bith. Don’t accept the unacceptable.

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